The saucy Neptunes production “Milkshake” got most of the radio love, but Kelis’ Tasty, her third album, is a gem from start to finish. Also featuring assistance from Andre 3000 (on the electro-heavy “Millionaire”) and former Tony! Toni! Toné! frontman Raphael Saadiq, the album is an expansive demonstration of Kelis Rogers’ talents and concerns. She dares paramour and guest rapper Nas to do it “In Public” — not the only time that a winning, wicked laugh escapes her lips. It’s not all naughty-girl play; “Protect My Heart,” which recalls early-’80s hits by the S.O.S. Band, is a cute sort-of lament about falling hard, while “Rolling Through the Hood” manages to fit both a lover’s woes and a citizen’s social concerns into its lyric. Spread the word: Tasty is an extraordinarily catchy, smart dish.

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