Though The Pizza Tapes began as an unauthorized release, this collection is the definitive document of David Grisman and Jerry Garcia’s long and storied musical collaboration. The album came together when Grisman and guitarist Tony Rice were jamming one night at Grisman’s home studio in February 1993 and invited Garcia to join them. Garcia’s copy of the tapes was eventually stolen and bootlegged by a pizza delivery boy, which is how the collection got its unusual title. After circulating among Deadheads for years, Grisman gave the tapes an official release in 2000. The performances are looser and less composed than the other Grisman/Garcia albums, but that’s what makes it essential. The bits of conversation, false starts, and off-the-cuff choices evoke the best kind of late-night jam. The tone is exceedingly slow and relaxed, giving the entire session a warm, unworried aura. The interplay between Garcia and Rice is astounding, especially on a long version of “Summertime.” And the pleasure is ours.